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 Post subject: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:06 am
Posts: 79
Location: Wights Mountain, Queensland
Hi folks.
I've just bought two Khaki Campbell ducks, which are now about 2 weeks old. I am planning to keep them with my 2 Australorp cross chooks, so far the chooks seem to be leaving them alone. This breed of duck is new to me, they are very different from my Muscovies, I got these Campbells for their eggs.
Should I feed them layer mash when they come off the crumble?
How old before they lay?
Is there anything I need to look out for?
regards
Russell


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:36 pm
Posts: 85
How are your Khaki going Russell? I kept them for only a very short time but found them to be a lovely & productive breed.

About the only real prob I can see with keeping them with your chooks is that they will mess up the water very quickly, & although your chooks will drink what is left, they may not be too keen on the surrounding quagmire created by splashed water.

Yes they are very different from Muscovies; more active, not as quiet (temperment-wise), a little noisier, not as reliable as broodies nor mothers, not as big (but I found producing birds to be still good eaters), & far better layers. They are different, but they are a great breed also.

You should be able to get away with feeding your birds as you do your Muscovies (& chooks). I would personally wouldn't use dry laying mash because it can be a bit more difficult for them to swallow. Pellets are a good alternative with little waste, & I have used a wet mash in the past but that is more work for yourself, & you have to be careful with left-overs which will quickly sour.

I can't remember what age my Khakis were when they commenced laying, but they are a light breed so will commence earlier than the heavier breeds. From my reading, somewhere between 17 to 24 weeks I believe.

Nothing really to look out for. Ducks are very hardy & resistent to a lot of ailments chickens succumbe to. If you can range them a little it will go along way to keeping your ducks happy while reducing overly contaminated & messy living quarters. May also help to control lots of garden pests in an evironmentally friendly way. If you have a vegge garden probably best to place a low barrier around it because although your ducks will be no where near as destructive as your chooks, they may ruffle your lettuce leaf a little!

Best of luck :)

drayllor


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 11, 2009 3:55 pm
Posts: 1
Thought this might help you, some diseases arn't in oz. good web site to check out http://www.callducks.net/ducksail.htm

Aspergillosis
Symptoms: Laboured breathing, which can also be a symptom of pneumonia.
Cause: Spores from mouldy bedding, especially hay, which should be avoided.
Treatment: Aspergillosis can be treated with fungicides - but these are expensive and unlikely to be successful. Avoid this disease by good management. Aflatoxin poisoning may show similar symptoms. In this case, the moulds that grow on cereal grains and oilseeds produce toxins which are very damaging for ducks. Store food in dry, cool conditions. Never use mouldy food.


Botulism
Symptoms: Loss of muscular control of legs, wings and neck - hence the term limberneck. Birds are unable to swallow.
Cause: Toxins produced by bacteria (Clostridia) in decaying animal and vegetable waste. The toxins cause the problem.
Treatment: Avoid problems by keeping ducks out of muddy/dirty areas, and stagnant pools, especially in hot weather. The bacteria multiply rapidly in warmer temperatures in anaerobic conditions (where oxygen is excluded). Give affected birds fresh drinking water. If necessary, introduce water into the mouth and throat with a syringe (no needle). A crop tube could be used with the advice of a vet. Add Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate, available from the High Street Chemist) to the water. This is an old remedy which is still used. Recommended amounts vary from 1 tablespoon in one cup of water to 1 ounce per 50 fluid oz ( two and a half pints) of water.

Coccidiosis
Symptoms: Red blood in the droppings; birds thin because coccidia attack the lining of the gut and nutrients from food are not absorbed. Birds may be ill for some time- weeks, not days.
Cause: Ground dirty with droppings of birds which carry coccidia. Coccidia are protozoa and cannot therefore be eliminated with antibiotic. More likely in summer in hot, wet conditions.
Treatment: Anticoccidial in the drinking water, or as a drench, obtainable from your vet. The coccidiostat added to poultry (hen) grower pellets is not a treatment. Follow the prescribed withdrawal period stated on the product label in the unlikely event that these birds or eggs are eaten. Avoid problems by growing young ducklings on clean ground, moving their protective coop onto a new patch each day. Coccidiosis is not common disease with ducks, especially if you have clean water and feed wheat and pellets. Geese are more likely to get it from grazing on dirty grass. There is a single-dose treatment available from your vet.

Egg binding: see web page Egg problems

Enteritis
Inflammation and bleeding in the gut can be produced by bacteria or duck viral enteritis. DVE is rare, but will kill most affected birds. Prompt treatment with a vaccine obtainable from Holland, obtained through your vet, is the only solution.
Symptoms: If birds are listless and suffering from pinkish droppings in hot spells in summer, this is more likely to be a bacterial form of enteritis. Watch the wild birds. If blackbirds etc. are ill too, then your ducks do not have DVE.
Cause: The bacterial disease is probably transmitted by the wild bird population.
Treatment: Bacterial enteritis is easily treated by using soluble antibiotic powders in the drinking water, but you must catch this early. (Several types of soluble powder can be obtained through a vet.) No other water should be available. Move the birds onto clean ground a couple of days after treatment has commenced. Make sure the birds get eight days treatment. These antibiotic powders can only be prescribed by a vet, and a suitable withdrawal time must be followed (not that Call ducks eggs, or Call ducks are generally eaten). The withdrawal time is stated on the product label.

Lameness
Symptoms: Hot leg. Swollen ankle or swollen hock. This is rare in Calls.
Cause: Bacterial infection.
Treatment: Course of antibiotic injections prescribed by a vet. A suitable withdrawal time must be followed. (not that Call ducks eggs, or Call ducks are generally eaten).


Maggots
Symptoms: Dirty vent. Maggot infestation may not be readily noticed.
Cause: Birds do not have enough water for keeping themselves clean, particularly at the vent, during hot weather in summer. Injured birds may also have flies' eggs deposited at the injury.
Treatment: pick the maggots off the affected area. Use ointment, then fly spray. Check the birds each day for several days - any fly eggs already on the bird will still hatch.

Mites
Symptoms: Birds scratch a lot. Northern mite lives on the bird and sucks its blood.
Cause: Mites are caught from other birds at bird shows, and from new birds you may have introduced. It is possible that they can also be caught from wild birds.
Lice, which are insects, also live on the birds. These live on bits of feather, and are grey in colour instead of red. More info on these parasites in CDA Publication 10 (Dec 2003).
Treatment: use pesticides such as pyrethrum, or Ivermectin from the vet. Observe the withdrawal time stated on the product. (See the web pages on wet feather and worming for the dosage of Ivermectin which is a systemic treatment for pests).

Lead poisoning
Symptoms: Lack of coordination, loss of weight .
Cause: Lead shot from cartridges of air gun pellet.
Treatment: Make sure the source of lead cannot be accessed. Provide grit for the birds so that they do not pick up bits of lead for the gizzard.

Pasteurella
Symptoms: Loss of appetite, increased thirst, watery then green droppings. Loss of coordination.
Cause: Bacteria in the environment.
Treatment: Prompt treatment with antibiotic from the vet may save larger birds. Smaller birds usually succumb. Eliminate carriers, such as rats.

Prolapse
Symptoms: Males - the penis is dropped externally from the body. Females - the lower part of the oviduct protrudes. See the web page on Egg Problems.

Respiratory problems
Symptoms: The birds sits hunched up, and bobs its tail up and down to assist in breathing.
Cause: Bacterial infection, especially in spells of intensely wet weather. Bear in mind that the symptoms of Aspergillosis are similar, but this will not respond to antibiotic treatment.
Treatment: A long course of antibiotic from the vet, in the case of a bacterial infection. Birds' lungs are complicated, because of adaptations for flight. So an infection is difficult to resolve.

Sinus Problems
Symptoms: Weeping nostrils and puffed up cheeks.
Cause : Bacteria in the environment infect the sinuses. More prevalent in Calls than in other breeds of ducks.
Treatment :Appropriate antibiotic injection obtainable from the vet; Baytril is often prescribed by a vet , but another more effective antibiotic may be available. Treatment should be immediate to be effective. If left, the cheeks harden and the bird cannot be cured. The sinuses can be flushed with antibiotic by a vet. As stated above, follow the appropriate withdrawal time advised on the product label.

Slipped wing
Symptoms: The primary feathers of the wings in young birds turn outwards. They may also just drop.
Cause: The ducklings are fed a diet too high in protein and grow too fast. The blood in the quills is too heavy for the wings to support correctly. This rarely happens in Calls. If Calls do have wing problems it is likely to be hereditary.
Treatment: Feed growing birds a lower protein diet while they develop the primary feathers. Change the breeding stock to stop this problem developing.


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:06 am
Posts: 79
Location: Wights Mountain, Queensland
Thanks for your advice people. I have separated them from the chooks for now, with a low chicken wire fence, one of the chooks got very aggressive.

I have a high set chicken house, and even after locking the ducks in at night a few times, still wouldn't wouldn't follow the chooks in, maybe the ramp was too narrow. So it looks like I will need to make a separate nesting area for them - sigh.

I have put river sand down around their eating and drinking area, as I have with my muscovies, and it seems to be keeping the mess down, the proof will come with the next tropical downpour.

They are almost hard feathered now, much faster growth than the mussies, will start feeding shellgrit soon. I'm currently involved trying to help start a community garden, one of my motivations being that I can allow all my ducks and chooks to roam around our block without worrying about the veggies. Ducks are good at pruning trees, but it's good to keep the skirt of most trees off the ground, and chooks are excellent at destroying just about any garden bed if left to themselves.
regards
Russell


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:38 pm
Posts: 1
Very good info Beven I searched in vain to find that sort of info
Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:05 am
Posts: 3
That is good info, many of which are not that relevant to Australia but still good for newbie’s to know. I agree searching the net brings up all non Australian sites so it’s good to finally find a good waterfowl site.


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 2
Heres a few links you might find helpful on Khaki's , I did when I got mine.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/l ... d-breeding

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khaki_Campbell

http://www.easternplains.com/khaki%20history.htm

http://duckhobby.com/Khaki_Campbellduckbreed.html

http://www.journeytoforever.org/farm_po ... l#campbell


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 Post subject: Re: Khaki Campbells ducks
PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:06 am
Posts: 79
Location: Wights Mountain, Queensland
Thanks Bart, good links.
regards
Russell


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